Some amazing offerings from a small importer operating out of an unlikely place, Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. Known more for sports teams and a style of steak than world class wine, none the less this amazing “La Collezione de Stan The Wine Man™” is a hand-selected smorgasbord of Italian wines not to be missed. Here is a review of some of the wines of this important importer.
I first heard about Stan Lalic (Stan the Wine Man) in 1993 from a mutual friend in the Philadelphia area. I immediately thought, “Who is this fellow who bombastically calls himself the Wine Man?” Did everyone else die and leave Stan Lalic in charge? Over the years I have come to learn that when it comes to fine Italian wine that is exactly what has happened. Lalic sleeps, eats and lives Italian wine. A former Westinghouse employee whose hobby was travelling northern Italy procuring wines to bring home and share with family and friends Lalic was frustrated with the fact that there were no great Italian wines being sold in his part of the USA. It turns out when Lalic left Westinghouse he decided to dedicate the rest of his life to wine. Not just any wine but only fine Italian wine.
In 1987 Lalic started representing a company importing the wines of Italian masters like Angelo Gaja, Giuseppe Rinaldi and Bruno Giacosa amongst other illuminati in the Italian wine world. Lalic was selling $150 bottles when other fine Italian wine was selling for twenty dollars. What makes all this even more amazing is that Lalic is not Italian and doesn’t speak Italian. In 1996 Lalic decided to form his own importing company, Enoteca Diana, named for Lalic’s wife, Diana. With his experience, well honed palate and pursuit of wines in the realms of perfection he works with many of his producers to create wines of extraordinary quality. Typically only 300-600 bottles of a particular wine will be available to the world. Much like a modern day Don Quixote, Lalic is fighting a battle against the homogenization and mass marketing of fine Italian wine. Lalic’s “Collezione” features wines with extremely individualistic personalities. He is fighting the onslaught of the so-called “International Standard” with the introduction of barriques into Italy by pleading with producers to go back to the traditional handling of their wines in large oak casks.
With no website, no staff and no advertising Lalic has created a loyal following of Italian wine lovers in the United States. Wine lovers in the Pittsburgh area should be camping out on his doorstep seeking his latest offerings.
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2005 Incognito – Cecillia Monte – 100% Nebbiolo
ReplyDeleteCecillia Monte from Neive in the heart of Barbaresco has received considerable attention.
With clearly delineated purity of fruit this wine shouts Nebbiolo from its luminescent cherry garnet robe to its nose of dried roses, exotic Asian spices and dried herbs. This traditionally made wine is medium to full bodied and structured with moderate tannin. The palate displays broodingly deep dried black fruit with excellent grip of mouth coating tannins and concentration. This wine is the Jackie O. of nebbiolo … restrained elegance … while representing an awesome bargain. Decant for several hours before drinking. Best drunk now or over the next 6-7 years. 92 points SWR
2004 Barbaresco Serracapelli – Cecillia Monte
ReplyDeleteThe dazzling 2004 Barbaresco Serracapelli is sensational. Dusty garnet colour is accompanied by sumptuous aromas of anise, tobacco, Chinese black tea, kirsch and spice box. Medium-bodied with black cherry, cassis and spice on the palate it is layered, with exceptionally pure nebbiolo fruit, sweet tannin, and adequate acidity, this elegant Barbaresco has a sweet entry and an authoritative finish. The 2004 will drink well now but promises to age effortlessly for a decade. If Cecillia Monte’s Incognito is the Jackie O. of nebbiolo this is the Princess Grace of Barbaresco. 96 points SWR
2005 Volpe Pasini – Zuc di Volpe – pinot bianco - Friuli
ReplyDeleteEmilio Rotolo and his inspired oenologist Alessio Dorigo at Volpe Pasini have created a pinot bianco masterpiece. Their 50% barrel fermented, 13.5% alcohol, 2005 Zuc di Volpe pinot bianco gushes with white peach and ripe mango with hints of papaya and pineapple which coats the palate with fruit-filled creaminess from its partial barrel fermentation. All this is placed in a framework of highly structured and perfectly balanced acidity. This wine has the extraction and power of an Alsatian Vendange Tardive pinot but is dry, medium bodied, rich and opulent and clearly designed to accompany food. This wine should be served just slightly chilled to experience its layered, creamy texture and complex, exotic fruit. Drink now or over the next 3 to 5 years. 94 points SWR
2007 Volpe Pasini _ Zuc de Volpe – pinot grigio – Friuli
ReplyDeleteThe 2007 Volpe Pasini pinot grigio at 13% alcohol is a winemaking extravaganza with magnificent aromatics of peaches, sweet white fruits, a hint of almonds and honey. This concentrated, medium-bodied wine is loaded with mouthcoating tropical fruits with pineapple and peaches dominating. Zuc de Volpe wines are noted for their purity of fruit, grip and delineation. This well proportioned and finely balanced wine will bring your expectations of pinot grigio to a new level.
Drink now to 2011. 92 points SWR
2006 Volpe Pasini - Zuc de Volpe – Tocai Friulano – Friuli
ReplyDeleteContinuing the white wine trilogy from Zuc de Volpi is their extraordinary Tacai Friulano. Believed to be the sauvignonasse or sauvignon vert this grape, along with pinot grigio, is widely planted in Friuli.
The greenish straw coloured 2006 Volpe Pasini Tocai Friulano is loaded on the nose and palate with tropical fruits, pineapple and mango in abundance. Concentrated with medium body, good grip and the texture of its cousin, a fine sauvignon blanc. Fully dry and beautifully balanced. A great addition to any wine list. Drink over the next 3-4 years. 92 points SWR
2004 Niedermayr – pinot noir riserva – 100% pinot noir – Alto Adige
ReplyDeleteFrom vines growing at 2000 feet Niedermayr has fashioned a gorgeous pinot noir. Their garnet-coloured 2004 displays a perfumed red fruit-scented nose. It has excellent depth of red and black cherries and Asian spices in a medium-bodied, seamless, satin texture. The wine has excellent grip, density of fruit and balance. Its long finish reveals ripe tannins that should melt away with a few years cellaring although this wine is ready to enjoy tonight. This wine will delight the pinot noir lover whether they drink their pinot noir from Burgundy or Oregon. The wine is labeled Südtiroler Blauburgunder Riserva but it could almost say Chambolle-Musigny. This pinot noir is a must have for any serious cellar or wine list. Drink between now and 2012. 92 points SWR
2003 Gabriella Mayr – Pas Dosé Riserva – Metodo classico talento – Sparkling
ReplyDeleteThis wine has it all and will cause many to recalibrate their conception of Italian sparkling wine.
Made by Metodo classico it also carries the rarified term – talento – which is only available to wines matured in the bottle for at least 15 months. In this case the 2003 Gabriella Mayr is matured on tirage for a full 40 months. With its light straw colour with green tints, the extended aging on the yeast is evident in its nose of toasted wheat and vanillin aromas. This wine has tiny bubbles with a persistent effervescence. The palate is crisp and dry with a medium to full body and lingers in the mouth for almost a full minute. This is an elegant, refined and graceful wine possessing extreme balance. Crisp and fruity, yet so delicate on the palate; it would be difficult to find a finer sparkling wine in Italy. Highly Recommended. 96 points SWR
2001 San Rustico – Amarone della Valpolicella Classico – Gliocchi Blu de Sabrina
ReplyDeleteAmarone grapes (corvina) are dried for four months prior to crushing and fermentation. With a spectacular, opaque, dark purple colour the 2001 Amarone Classico (16% alcohol) from San Rustico possesses a gorgeous aroma of blackberries, plums, black cherries and black truffles. This full bodied, super rich and deeply concentrated wine has striking purity as well as a fabulous perfume. It has none of the raisiny, pruny or sweet characteristics of some super extracted Amarones. Even with its tremendous alcohol level the amazing, seamless texture and acidity makes this a food friendly wine. Full, voluptuous and completely balanced with tremendous extract cloaking impressive tannin levels complete this winemaking tour de force. This wine must be decanted several hours before consumption and should drink well over the next 15+ years. It is the best Amarone I have ever tasted from San Rustico and not to be missed. Highly Recommended. 100 points SWR
2003 Platinum – Poderi la Collina – Nebbiolo and Barbera – Dogliani in Piemonte
ReplyDeleteThis is a winemaking success story for Piergiorgio Marengo and Stan Lalic a/k/a Stan The Wine Man.
They have collaborated to bring you their 2003 Platinum, an outstanding blend of equal parts Nebbiolo and Barbera aged for 30 months in 225 liter French oak barrique Bordelaise. 2003 Platinum boasts a saturated deep ruby colour along with sumptuous aromas of licorice, dried herbs and black fruits with dried roses from the ripe Nebbiolo. The texture of this medium-bodied wine is powerful, yet harmonious, with sweet tannins and plenty of structure. Dried herbs and sweet black fruits dominate the palate. This is all wrapped in a slightly vanillin package from the extended oak aging. Drink now and over the next 4-5 years. 91 points SWR
2006 Labbra di Giada – Poderi la Collina - Dolcetto di Dogliani – Piedmonte
ReplyDeleteAlong with Piergiorgio Marengo of Poderi la Collina, Stan, The Wine Man, Lalic has created a positive beauty in the 2006 Labbra di Giada. In his fanaticism for perfection Stan did not import the 2005 because it was not up to his standard. 2006 Labbra di Giada is aged in 500 litre French Allier oak for 15 months. The result launches the dolcetto (little sweet one) off of the luncheon table and on to the fine dining table. With a deeply saturated purple colour the wine bursts with the opulent nose of ripe plums, black cherries, licorice and cassis. On the palate you a faced with a smorgasbord of lush fruit with black berries and black cherries dominating. The medium bodied wine exhibits gorgeous ripeness, admirable richness and a long, low-acid, fleshy finish. It should drink well for 5-7 years. 93 points SWR